Lyon (Sept 4, 2025)

Right off the bat, Lyon has the feel of a smaller city compared to Paris. Stores close earlier and there are fewer people out and about. On the other hand, the produce is fresher and the prices are more affordable. The trains are shorter (similar to Montreal), but the hotel rooms / apartments are bigger. I can see why Paris is more exciting, but Lyon is more livable.

Lyon is also one of the food capitals of France. Meats are one of its specialties and as such there are a lot more meat shops littered about. This is one of the observations we made as my mom and I strolled through the Montplaisir neighborhood for breakfast. 

We saw these everywhere - supermarkets and meat shops alike

There was a morning market in the square with produce, cheese, meat and bread vendors though we settled for a coffee shop instead. 

Judging from the coffee shop, the population in Lyon trends older than that of Paris. Also, there were a few people who brought bread across the street and ate it at the coffee shop - a practice that is rarely allowed in the US but fine here where each shop specializes in its own goods. On our way to the city center, we passed by many African grocery stores as well.

In the city center, we visited the Place Bellecour

wandered into Eglise Saint Nizier

and admired the Place des Terreaux.

The Musee des Beaux Arts had a peaceful garden that you could enjoy for free.

We wandered to the Croix Rousse area. Lots of stairs, murals, and pretty views!

Optical illusion - looks like another set of stairs but is actually a mural

At the top!

Plus a market where we purchased some Mirabelle plums to accompany the Saint-Nectare cheese we had bought the night before.

I also perused through the aisles of Monoprix, where there were THREE rows of different peppercorns.

Next, we headed to Vieux Lyon - charming stone paths but at this point it was pouring.

Didnt stop us from visiting the Cathedrale Saint Jean Baptiste and a very pretty public library (to use the bathroom lol).

Entrance to the library is on the right 😮

I tried the Brioche aux praline rose (brioche with pink candied almonds / pecans). No it didn’t taste pink, but certainly attracted lots of wasps.

If the wasps like it, it must be good...

Once energized, we hiked up to the Notre Dame de Fourviere. The steep climb and rain made it a true refuge.

The gilded ceilings were so pretty!

On the way up, we encountered some Roman ruins along with sounds drifting out from Lyon Conservatory practice rooms).

Roman ruins from afar

On the way down, we passed through the Parc des Hauteurs. Views would be amazing in better weather...

It was still raining so we sought refuge in a cafe, where we tried a crepe with Grand Marnier. The orange essence reminded me of the waffle cakes I had growing up, though with more bitterness from the alcohol.

And then we returned to the library for more refuge until dinner. 

A book all about "pies" common in Lyon

I had brief scare where my phone wouldn’t charge but thankfully that was resolved by buying a new charging cable.

For dinner, we went to Chez Grand-Mêre, a classic bouchon lyonnais recommended by a postdoc who grew up in Lyon. Lyon is considered by some to be the food capital of France and I couldn’t agree less! Through its simplicity, the food highlighted the quality of ingredients. In this way, it reminded me a bit of Cantonese food.

Here’s the rundown of the food (all lyonnais specialties):

1. Oeuf meurette - poached egg in red wine sauce, with crispy lardons and croutons. The sauce was a little fruity and sweet. The egg worked well with the wine - the runny yolk mellowed some of the tannins from the wine.

2. Gateau de foies de volailles - tender liver patty, delicate garlic and not too strong on the liver. Fresh tomato sauce - didn’t really meld with liver / enhance liver flavor but it was nice to cleanse the palette to keep very bite exciting :)

3. Quenelle de Brochet - fish dumpling in creamy “lobster” sauce. Dumpling almost had texture of sponge cake! Sauce with rice tasted like buttered popcorn lol (sauce plus rice together enhanced butter in sauce and toasty notes in rice)

4. Andouilette - sausage made with pork intestine, served with sauce montarde a l’acciene. Pork is so flavorful here (farm raised stuff yippee), meat was lightly seasoned with salt and spices. Casing made with real intestines - I liked the chewy texture! Best part were the potatoes combined with nutmeg and pepper cream sauce - BEST POTATOES EVER - they were melt in your mouth (both the potatoes and especially with the creamy sauce)!!! I think they're called gratin daphinois.

5. Cervelle de canut - translates to “brain of the silk weaver” but really just a cheese dip. Basically sour cream and onion dip with a bit of cheesy funk?? Not what I expected for dessert cheese haha

6. Flotante aux praline rose - they are all about the praline here. Praline tart would be the classic but I wanted something lighter. This merengue cloud in creme anglaise with a bit of crunchy praline hit the spot - simple vanilla flavor to finish the meal

7. Chateauvieux - Coteaux du Lyonnais AOP - local red wine, semi sweet, pretty palatable, though nothing special

I would definitely come back to Lyon to try more of their specialties, eg coq au vin, tête de veau, etc.